When the French priests in Willa Cather's novel, "Death Comes for the Archbishop," arrive in New Mexico in the late 1800s, they are humbled by its stark landscape; the “monotonous red sand-hills” seem to go on forever, breaking only intermittently to show the smallest signs of life- a juniper tree, or a grove of Cottonwoods that promise water. While their time in New Mexico presented mostly ecclesiastical challenges, many of the discomforts they would bear were gastronomical in nature. You might expect there to be some level of adaptability, they were from France after all! Roasted leg of lamb gave way to stewed mutton in a pot with chile and onions ("Frenchman, as a rule, do not like high seasoning.") They complained about the lack of green vegetables in winter ("and no one seems to ever to have heard of that blessed plant, the lettuce"), soups made with onions in lieu of leeks ("how can man make a soup without leeks, that king of vegetables?"), and god forbid, a diet of dried beans and roots ("are we to eat dried beans and roots for the rest of our lives?").Cather's novel was on my reading list for a recent trip to Santa Fe. Naturally, I was delighted and surprised to find that food played such a supporting role in the story of the French clergymen. I felt some sort of connection with her characters- they missed greens in the winter, they talked of planting gardens, they learned to perfect their sauces, and managed many other culinary pursuits despite “the poverty of materials.” In a new, and inhospitable land they were adapting to the changes in their diet (chiles in everything!) and dealing positively (although sometimes begrudgingly) with their limitations; and no matter what, food held a special place in their memory. They were like us!
After my year as a locavore, I carry my regional food curiosities with me wherever I go. When planning any vacation, I usually make it a priority to visit the local Farmer's Market, a nearby farm, or a restaurant that features locally grown foods. On this trip, my sister and I visited the Santa Fe Farmers Market, one of the most widely recognized markets in the country. Every Saturday morning of the year, people gather to shop for the season's best farm fresh produce, meat, and cheeses. Despite New Mexico's tortuous landscape, there seemed to be no shortage of vegetables. Cather's priests would have been overjoyed to see the buckets of lettuce, Swiss chard, and asparagus, not to mention the incredible variety of organic, pastured meats - chicken, beef, goat, lamb, bison, and even yak! It was a veritable oasis of foodstuffs, much of which was augmented with chiles (fortunately, I do not share the sentiment of Cather's characters, and enjoy on occasion a little spice in my cuisine)! There were also breads and pastries, teas and cheeses, hothouse tomatoes, and lots of free samples to munch on while perusing the aisles of vendors. What a way to travel!
Some of the market offerings:
Asparagus galore (this didn't last very long!)
Squash plants and flowers for sale
Organic beef, one of the many meat options available
My sister with her first tomato of the year! This is a yellow heirloom variety that was grown in a hothouse.
Freshly baked breads
"that blessed plant, the lettuce"
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